Wild Orchids

Grow Orchids in the Greenhouse

2010-08-23T23:01:00.000-07:00

Grow Orchids in the Greenhouse
Greenhouse is the ultimate home for orchids and just as important, for the orchids grower.

When a good artificial light set-up can provide everything the plants need, nothing beats spending a sunny winter day in a warm glass room filled with colors and sweet, musky fragrance of orchids in bloom.

Most serious orchid growers dream of building a greenhouse for their plants, for good reason.

Orchids can be grown satisfactorily on a windowsill and very well under lights, but in a well designed, well maintained greenhouse they positively thrive.

If you thinking of taking the plunge, though, weigh the decision carefully. Tending a greenhouse full of orchids is like raising a child in that it requires constant supervision and years of daily commitment.

One heatless night in winter can destroy your entire collection, as can one invented summer day.

When the temperature plummets or a wisdom comes up, prepare to spend some sleepless nights listening for the startling beep of the temperature alarm or the splintering crash of a tree limb hitting glass.

Plants in a greenhouse need daily watering or at least checking and as the collection will surely enlarge to fill the space, it will require more yearly maintenance as well.

Going on vacation means that you have to hire a plant sitter to water or be call should be a temperature emergency.
Grow Orchids in the Greenhouse

Pollinia

2010-07-17T06:59:00.001-07:00

Pollinia
Much of the classification of the family is based on the structure of the pollinia and their associated organs.

They can be extracted from the flower by sliding a needles or match slowly upwards along the inner side of the column.

They can then be examined with a hand-lens (a magnification of x 10 or x 15 is usually adequate).

The number of pollinia can usually be easily seen, though care must be taken as the pollinia are sometimes not all extracted at once.

A few species have 2 deeply bilobed pollinia, which can look like 4; again, other species may have extra infertile pollinia which are shrunken and colorless.

In most of the tropical species in cultivation the pollinia are waxy to hard and of a well-defined shape.

In some hardy species they are more powdery, or are made up of several to many individual packets which separate easily from each other.

The pollinia generally have a small , sticky pad (the viscidium, derived from stigmatic material) at the base.

There is sometimes a stalk (stipe) between the viscidium and the individual pollinia, or each pollinium may have its own individual stipe.

Again, in some genera, the median lobe of the 3-lobed stigma is modified to play a part in the pollination process.

The structure so formed is known as the rostellum, and can be quite conspicuous in some groups.
Pollinia

Monopodial Orchid

2010-05-29T07:16:00.000-07:00

Monopodial Orchid
A monopodial orchid grows predominantly upward. It has been stem, which produces new leaves at its tip, and it flowers from buds at the juncture of the recently matured leaves and stem.

The word “monopodial” (Latin for “single foot”) describes this type of single stem growth habit.

Vanda and phalaenopsis are examples of common monopodial orchids. Other monopodial orchids include aerides, angraecum, ascocenda, ascocentrum, ascofinetia, doritaenopsis, doritis, kagawara, neofinetia, neoaerstylis, and trudelia.

One way to tell the difference between a monopodial and a sympodial orchid is to look around the base where it emerges from the growing medium. If monopodial, there will be no new shoots or baby plants growing up, only the original stalk.

By contrast, if sympodial, one or more new shoots can be seen emerging or in various stages of growth.

In nature, both types may seem to move horizontally or vertically away from the point of origination.

In cultivation, monopodials – excepting doritaenopsis, doritis and phalaenopsis – tend to expand upward while the sympodial move horizontally.
Monopodial Orchid

Vandas

2010-04-27T07:20:00.000-07:00

Vandas
Gloriously brilliant Vanda orchids have long enjoyed popularity, especially in high-light (4,000 foot-candles and higher), high temperature areas such as Florida and Hawaii.

Their colors include spectacular blue, and the full, round flowers can reach 5 inches wide on long, profuse spikes.

Most orchids bloom in winter but vandas dominate the summer months.

Vandas, with lots of aerial roots, grow exceptionally well undisturbed in baskets.

They are interbred often with Ascocentrum orchids, to make the very popular genus Ascocenda, which helps to downsize the otherwise often ungainly vanda (which can climb 10 feet high), as well as giving a broader color range, especially in scarlet and orange.

May other related genera are also hybridized with vandas; all are called vandaceous orchids.

Bright, hot southern window exposures are perfect, and a spot where the pants can be watered and fertilized freely and abundantly is ideal.
Vandas

Fluorescent Fixtures

2010-04-08T01:10:00.001-07:00

Fluorescent Fixtures
Fluorescent bulbs are much, mush better than incandescent in the quality, quantity and cost of the light they produce and they have long been the standard for indoor growers.

They are very inexpensive to set up and operate, and many orchid species thrive under them.

Their main disadvantage are disposal of the bulbs and headroom. Fluorescent have to be changed about once a year to keep up the light output and of you have more than a few fixtures, changing them and, more important, disposing of the old bulbs becomes a chore; many municipalities won’t take the bulbs as standard household trash.

As to headroom, the intensity of the light from fluorescents drops quickly with distance from fixture, so the plants need to be within a foot of the bulbs for optimal growth.

Watering, grooming and enjoying your plants require some gymnastic when you have to operate in such tight space.

Many types of florescent bulbs are available, both in size and in the quality of light they produce.

The bulbs that puts the white in a white color and drains the color from your skin is ubiquitous cool white bulb, which emits a bluish white light. Warm white bulb are closer to incandescent, with a pinkish orange color that includes the red wavelengths.

Since plant need both red and blue light for photosynthesis you can combine warm and cool white bulbs to get a fairly well balanced light for plant growth.

You can get bulbs designed specifically to emit light that is very high in the photosynthetically active red and blue wavelengths and that also usually has some purple throw in to enhance the plants; appearance (similar to the aquarium bulbs used to brighten the colors of tropical fish).

Some flowers especially red and purple ones never appear as vibrant ad lustrous in natural light as they do under these grow lights.
Fluorescent Fixtures

The Flowers of orchids

2010-03-16T08:10:00.000-07:00

The Flowers of orchids
‘The flowers of orchids, however highly modified, are all built on a common plan, with 3 sepals, 3 petals, one of which is highly modified as the lip, 1 or 2 stamens borne on a complex structure, the column which consist of the stamens united to the styles and stigmas of the inferior, 3-carpellary ovary.

Though this plan is generally easy to see, the variations on it are very numerous, and include such featuring as fusion of various parts (especially of the sepals), the occurrence of spurs (sometime formed by the uppermost sepal, on other occasions by the base of the lip), and great variations in the relative sizes of the various parts.

In all the keys and descriptions the flowers are considered to be resupinate unless the contrary is stated.

In species is hanging or arching inflorescences the degree of resupination of the flower may vary, those flowers towards the hanging apex being non resupinate , while those at the more erects base may be properly resupinate.

However, in some genera with hanging inflorescene, the flowers are all strictly resupinate.
The Flowers of orchids

Types of Orchids

2010-02-25T04:31:00.000-08:00

Types of Orchids
Orchids have two basic growth patterns: monopodial and sympodial.

Despite the vastness of the family, most members fall into one or the other category, and none is half and half.

While different genera of orchids are crossed with each other to create new entities, seemingly with greater abandon than in any other plant family, the bottom line is that monopodials are crossed with monopodials, sympodial with sympodial, but never monopodials with sympodial or voice versa.

Knowing whether the orchid you hold in your hand is monopodial or sympodial is of importance, however because this information will help you pot and grow it successfully and it also offers a clue as to how best to propagate the plant.
Types of Orchids

Oncidiums

2010-02-09T13:31:00.000-08:00

Oncidiums
For sheer number of brilliant yellow blooms, few orchids groups rival the dancing sprays of the delightful plants of the genus Oncidium.

Just about any branched shower of little yellow flowers in an elegant florist’s bouquet is bound to belong to this relatively easy-to-grow group.

Oncidium is closely related to quite a number of other orchid genera including Odontoglossum, Miltonia, Brassia, Comparettia, and Cochlioda.

Thousands of intergeneric hybrids have been made between them to create a large group of more than 50 mew genera called the Oncidium Alliance.

In general however, straight oncidiums are among the easiest of all to grow, with the most temperature tolerance, particularly for heat.

All oncidiums like lots of light (2,500+ foot-candles) for best blooms and a bright southern windowsill often works well. Most prefer intermediate temperature (55 degree F minimum winter nights).

Oncidiums grow best in clay pot filled with a coarse well drained mix, or mounted on clay slabs. Good air movement – fresh breezes and fans – along with humidity above 50 percent keeps oncidiums happy.

They prefer lost of water and regular quarter strength 20-20-20 fertilizer, but they need a decided drying out between watering.
Oncidiums

Rosebud Orchid: Cleistes divaritica (Linnaeus) Ames

2010-01-19T17:32:00.000-08:00

Rosebud Orchid: Cleistes divaritica (Linnaeus) Ames
The single, tubular flower is generally about two inches or more in length and is supported on a stem that has a solitary leaf about half way up the stem and a single, pointed floral bract at the base of the ovary.

The narrow mahogany colored sepals stretch upward and are about the same length as the petals.

The front facing petals that form the tube are usually some shade of pick. The lip protrudes beyond the petals and has purple veins and markings.

It also sports a curved center section sometimes containing a blotch of yellow bristles. A single stem with two flowers is quite rare.

Besides the length of the flower, a characteristic that distinguish this species from Cleistes bifaria is a narrow, lance shaped floral bract.
Rosebud Orchid: Cleistes divaritica (Linnaeus) Ames

Grow Orchids under Artificial Lights

2009-12-26T16:49:00.000-08:00

Grow Orchids under Artificial Lights
Satisfying some of all plants light requirements with artificial light is an excellent option for the home orchid grower.

Under lights the plants never have a dull day, and it is possible to grow many species that just don’t receive enough natural light in most sills.

Having a dependable year round light source means no short, dark winter days.

The main drawback of light compared with a greenhouse (besides taking living space) is that it’s usually harder to achieve the 10-15 degree F nighttime temperature drop that some orchids need for for blooming.

The cost electricity, which varies from region to region, is certainly a factor to consider.

Indoor grower use three types of lights: incandescent, fluorescent and HD fixtures.
Grow Orchids under Artificial Lights

Inflorescences

2009-11-02T19:27:00.001-08:00

Inflorescences
The inflorescence in most orchids is a raceme.

In some general this is reduced to a single terminal flower, and in others is more highly branched, producing a racemose panicle.

The inflorescence may be terminal on the stem or pseudobulb, or lateral; in the latter case, the inflorescence can rose in a leaf-scar axil or a leaf scar on the pseudobulb or stem, or from the rhizome at the base of the pseudobulb.

In a few general in which the stems bear only a single leaf, the racemes are considered here to be terminal even though they might be interpreted as axillary to the leaf.
Inflorescences

Endangered Orchids

2009-10-15T01:35:00.000-07:00

Endangered Orchids
The orchid’s popularity has had some unfortunate effects. When the Victorians discovered the beauty of these plants, a huge demand was created.

Since there weren’t any orchid nurseries with modern propagation facilities, plants had to be collected from the wild.

Orchid sellers sponsored plant hunters on expeditions throughout the world.

These plant hunters were good – too good – at their jobs, sending back shipments weighing tons and containing thousands of plants.

When one of these botanical conquistadors found a valuable species, he took every plant he could find, wreaking ecological havoc.

More over, only a small fraction of the plants collected survived.

Countless species became extinct.

Although the number of orchids removed from wilds for collectors has diminished since Victorian orchid boom, we still find collected orchids for sale.

We can discourage the gathering of will orchids and their exploitation by purchasing only plants known to have been propagated by legitimate orchid growers.

Be careful of the advertisements, offering orchids described with the words “wild” and “bare root.”
The greatest danger to wild orchids is habitat destruction, which destroys all orchids, not just the prettiest.

It is estimated that billions of orchids are destroyed yearly by land clearing operations.
Endangered Orchids

Dendrobium

2009-09-16T22:04:00.000-07:00

Dendrobium
Dendrobium is a hugely diverse genus with some of the most spectacularly beautiful flowers. Its more than 1,000 species span a large range of types, sizes, colors, shapes and cultural requirements.

Most are profuse-blooming epiphytes from Asian and South Pacific tropics and subtropics.

Dendrobium cultures can be confusing because some types are deciduous, dropping their leaves in early winter, while others are evergreen.

Home growers typically encounter two types of dendrobiums, both who tall canes. Hybridizers have created an industry of readily available, brilliantly colored “Yamamoto” (or nobile) dendrobiums.

These are deciduous; they need and intermediate temperatures the rest of the year. The other common type is the phalaenopsis orchids except that its white to deep purple blooms resemble them).

This tropical plant needs warm (60 to 50 degree F) winter nights.

Most dendrobiums, regardless of type, want bright light (2,500 to 3,000 foot-candles, small pots. Well drained mixes (rock often works well, as does medium bark with coarse per-lite), good air movement, and humidity between 50 and 70 percent.
Dendrobium

Leaves of Orchids

2009-08-28T20:47:00.000-07:00

Leaves of Orchids
The shape of the leaves, often an important characteristics in plant identification, is of little significance in orchid identification.

The manner in which the young leaves are packed when young is, however, a very important character in generic identification.

The young leaves may be rolled, so that one margin overlaps the other and the back of the young leaf is rounded (technically known as supervolute or, somewhat incorrectly as convolute, or they they may be folded once longitudinally technically known conduplicate).

The character is generally easy to see in plants with young leaves, and it is also generally easy to decide even when the leaves are mature, as rolling or folding persists at the base.

In some genera in which the plants bear few leaves it may be difficult to decide on this character when the leaves are mature; the following features should help in making a decision.

Folded leaves generally retain a longitudinal line or small fold down the middle over most of their length, and usually have a definite keel on the outside towards the base; very hard, leathery leaves are almost all folded.

Rolled leaves are sometimes pleated or have prominent veins, do not usually have a single line or fold down the middle, and are rounded on their backs towards the base.

In a few genera and species the leaves are terete or cylindric with a groove or grooves; such leaves cannot be said to be either rolled or folded when young, but they are keyed here with the genera with folded leaves.
Leaves of Orchids

Accommodations Orchids Outdoors

2009-08-07T20:52:00.000-07:00

Accommodations Orchids Outdoors
While it is possible to hang orchids from tree branches where they will receive dappled sunlight and shade as breezes blow though their leaves, small pots or a large collection can be better managed if you grow the orchids on benches.

The surface of the bench needs to be slatted and then covered with quarter inch wire hardware cloth so that excess water from rain and the hose can rapidly drain off.

This arrangement also facilities free air circulation, which is what orchids are accustomed to in the rain forest.

For maximum comfort, build the benches at a height that suits yours.

A tall bench for a short gardener – or voce versa – causes physical stress and also diminished the sheer pleasure one should gain from growing orchids.

Depending on the size of your collection and the various sizes and habits of the plants themselves you may elect to build some benches more in the style of staging, like bleachers for plants.

The lowest may be about 12 inches off the ground, the next stood back at 24 inches, a third at 36 inches.

This arrangement works well set against a wall and may invite installing as shelf in the wall itself about 2 feet above the top “bleacher” shelf.

This makes an inviting place to arrange a collection and even tough it is essentially an orchid nursery, in its orderliness, there is a certain appeal.

It is not a good idea to set orchid plants directly on the ground. This is a sure way for the pots to become infested with slugs, snails, sowbugs, and other creatures that love the moist environment under the plants and make a meal of your plants in the night.

Never leave an orchid standing outdoors in a saucer or cachepot which can collect rain water. Unless you immediately on hand to empty the excess, the roots, will soon pettish, and the plant will topple from rot.

In the absence of adequate, regular rainfall, you will need to water your orchid plants outdoors with the same devotion you show when they are housebound.

Also maintain your same consistent schedule for fertilizing the plants – this is vital while orchids are growing outdoors in warm weather.
Accommodations Orchids Outdoors

Cymbidiums

2009-07-06T20:39:00.001-07:00

Cymbidiums
The oldest cultivated orchids are plants of the floriferous genus Cymbidium. The Asian natives have become the orchid mainstay of the cut flower industry, beloved for spikes of white, green, yellow, rose, and red flowers that sometimes last two months or more in water.

These big plants are very easy to grow, given very high light and very cool temperatures; they need 45 degree F autumn nights to set buds.

They often are grown outdoors in warmer climates. Indoors, a humid sun porch or greenhouse suits them best.

Smaller-growing, warmer species are being hybridized to create more temperature-tolerant plants that can grow on more windowsills.

Coupled with high light is a need for regular fertilizer. While most orchids are nee heavy feeders, cymbidiums benefit form 20-20-20 fertilizer applied at ¾ strength with each watering.

Humidity of 50 percent or more also helps, as does an extremely well drained semiterrestrial potting, medium of 50 percent medium fir bark, 30 percent chopped sphagnum moss and 20 percent perlite, with layer of stones or styrene foam on the bottom of a deep pot. Keep evenly moist.
Cymbidiums

Orchid Anatomy

2009-06-14T17:34:00.000-07:00

Orchid Anatomy
Orchids have two distinct patterns of growth – sympodial and monopodial. All orchids with pseudobulbs and some without are sympodial growers, sending up successive leafy growth or vertical stems along a creeping horizontal stem called a rhizome.

Roots also emanate form the rhizome, especially at the juncture with a vertical stem.

It quite a bit particular plant from the relative sizes of the various growths along the rhizome. Ideally, starting when the orchid is a seedling or tissue cultured plantlet, each new growth produced by the rhizome should be larger than the last until the plan reaches it genetically determined maximum size.

The rhizomes of most orchids creep along on top of or out of he potting mix, so they are easy to spot and trace. If the newest growth is actively developing – that is, if the leaves are still expanding and the psedobulb is still growing – look at the one directly or below it on the rhizome from comparison.

The successive increase in size is best indication that the plant is healthy and vigorous and if it is of blooming size, that is will bloom is season.

If the newest growth is smaller that the preceding one, it means the plant has recently suffered a setback caused by some trauma, such as division, root loss, or a major change in growing environment.

Better avoid buying that plant, for it is already weak and may not bloom for a few years.

If the newest growths are smaller than the oldest but show a positive increase in size of the plant is recovering and though it may take a year to bloom, should be adequately healthy.

Monopodial orchids lack pseudobulbs and rhizomes. Instead, they have a vertical stem lined with alternating leaves and lower downs, roots, Phalaenopsis and Vanda are common monopodials.
Orchid Anatomy

Hybridization

2009-05-05T08:22:00.000-07:00

Hybridization
As the interest in the orchids developed, nurseries began the process s of making hybrids between the species which they already had, and the new ones that were regularly coming in.
The first artificial hybrid was made in Veitch’s nursery in 1852; this was between two species of Calanthe.

Other successful hybridization soon followed, involving genera such as Cattleya and Paphiopedilum and very rapidly the production of new hybrids became an important activity in the nursery trade.

New hybrids must be registered with the International Registration Authority for Orchid Hybrids which is the Royal Horticultural Society of London. The naming of orchids hybrids is a very complex matter and is regulated by a set of rules and guidelines.

It is difficult to estimates the number of orchid species that have, at one time or another, been in cultivation, but it is clear that several thousand have been introduced.

Of these, many have not survived to become standard members of collections or have been lost because of difficulties with their cultivation or propagation or by accident.
Hybridization

Summering Orchids Outdoors

2009-04-13T21:19:00.001-07:00

Summering Orchids Outdoors
In areas with warm, humid summers, most orchids will benefits from being placed in the great outdoors, provided they are carefully positioned for healthful amounts of light and given adequate protection against opportunistic insects and other pests, such a slugs and snails.

The same as inside, you will need to study how much direct sun reaches any given area.

Orchids suited to low light will adapt well in bright, open shade or on the north side of the wall where the only direct sun is early or late in the day.

A site that received sun in the morning is suited to orchids that thrive in medium light levels, while direct sun through midday and into the afternoon is generally too much even for those tolerant of high light levels.

They’ll still need some protection (shade trees, shade cloth or lattice screens) from the sun’s hottest rays.

Do not move any orchid directly outdoors into full sun; gradually increase the exposure.
Summering Orchids Outdoors

Paphiopedilums

2009-03-03T00:34:00.000-08:00

Paphiopedilums
Excellent to grow side by side with Phalaenopsis are plants of the genus Paphiopedilum, known as paphs.

Paphs are tropical Indo-asian orchids related to North American lady’s slippers.

The tropical paphs make excellent houseplants, particularly because of low light needs (1,500 foot-candles) and warm/intermediate temperature preference.

Paphs are unique in appearance, so different in structure that some scientists would like to reclassify them together into a new category of flowers.

The sophisticated, waxy pouch and striking top sepal, combined with a variety of spots, stripes, hairs, twists, and even “warts,” on green, brown, red, yellow, pink, and white (even approaching the elusive black) flowers, make these a connoisseur’s choice.

Some have a beautiful mottled foliage as well.

Grow Paphiopedilums in deep, narrow plastic pots in a semiterrestrial mix of 50 percent medium to fine fir bark and 25 percent coarse quartz sand, with an equal blend of coarse perlite and milled leaf mold or chopped sphagnum moss.

Repot yearly, using plastic pots. Paphs do not like to dry out completely between watering, so water thoroughly every three to four days, or when the mix feels dry ½ inch down.

Fertilize lightly with 20-20-20 (1/4 strength) weekly, flushing with plain water every month.
Paphiopedilums

What is to look for when buying orchid?

2009-02-06T21:48:00.000-08:00

What is to look for when buying orchid?
There are basically two kinds of orchids – those that have a camel’s hump of sorts for storing water (either a swollen stem called a pseudobulb or fleshy, thickened leaves) and can thus withstand occasional droughts and those without a pseudobulb or fleshy that requires more consistent moisture.

If cacti thrive in our care because forgetful, about watering or travel quite a bit, the first type is a better bet.

Orchid in this category include species of Cattleya, Oncidium, Denrobium, Laelia, Encyclia, Brassavola, Cymbidium, Coelogyne, and many other genera.

If our apartment is full of ferns and African violets and we are happiest when carrying water can, we can try the more water demanding but generally easy and shade tolerant Paphiopedilums and Phalaenopsis.

When we planning to buy orchid, are the stems, leaves and pseudobulbs plump and unwrinkled? They should be white or pewter colored when dry and green or silvery green when wet. The root tips should be pointed and bright green.

The longer the green tip, the faster the root is growing. Dead roots are dull tan when dry, brown when wet, and the tip it is usually broken or chaffy. If some of the roots have crept up and over the lip of the pot, that’s okay, but the plant should feel firmly anchored in the pot, with no wobble; look to see if it is clipped or wired in place, and if possible, lift the clip off to check for wobbliness.

It is tempting to buy plants in flower, but flowering is stressful for the plant, and the added stress of having to acclimate to a new environment may cause the flowers to drop prematurely, especially the unopened flowers and developing flower spikes.

Unlike mature leaves, immature ones can adapt to changes in light and humidity when the orchid moves into its new home. If choose a healthy plant suites to our condition, it will be better able to cope with the stress of flowering when that times comes.
What is to look for when buying orchid?